Set in the beauties of dark and wild nature, the abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, in the province of Siena, stands out for the mystical inspiration of its history and the hugeness of its size. The roots of the Benedictine monastery, in fact, sink in the fullest of Medieval times, when the Blessed Bernardo – real name Giovanni, of the noble Sienese family of the Tolomei – abandoned luxuries and mundane riches to dedicate himself to a life of poverty and solitude, sent in the humble caves of Accona.
In this inhospitable place, which very soon became the privileged destination of hermits and wayfarers, in 1319 the congregation of the Olivetan Monks was founded, who from then on would distinguish themselves for their white attire, a sign of purity.
Also today, the house of the Olivetans maintains its original configuration: you can access it through a slim sliver of land between steep ledges and ditches. The external part of the monastery is overlooked by a great tower, built at the end of the XIV century. Beyond this construction, you venture through a path flanked on each side by cypress trees, and at the centre a 16th century fish pond. In the past, monks used this tank to get some food in the times when the “rule” prohibited meat consumption.
At the end of the road you see the austere and majestic profile of the gothic-roman abbey, the construction of which was started in 1401 and still hosts weddings and religious ceremonies today. Inside it, revisited in baroque style, particular relevance is given to Raffaele da Brescia’s wooden lectern and fra' Giovanni da Verona’s wooden inlaid choir, which occupies the whole nave.
Visotors’ attention however is drawn especially to the large cloister, a jewel decorated by one of the most important cycles in renaissance art: the Stories of San Benedetto. There are 36 large scenes, started in 1497 by Luca Signorelli and finished between 1505 and 1508 by Giovanni Antonio Bazzi called Sodoma.
The monastery also has a very rich library, which keeps around 40 thousand volumes, pamphlets and incunabula (monks still today are committed to the restoration of parchments and ancient papers), and an ancient chemist, where the friars continue to produce honey and herb based liquors. Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey is in Chiusure, a few kilometres away from better-known Asciano.
To reach the Abbey of Monte Oliveto you can choose two routes, both with a view. Starting from Siena you can follow the Cassia heading south until Buonconvento, from here you climb for the monastery; the second goes through Asciano, by the ancient via Lauretana and Chiusure, before leading to Monte Oliveto.
Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey
Province of Siena
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